In
the middle of World War II, Tehran became a haven for both Jewish and Catholic
Polish refugees who were welcomed as they arrived from Soviet Central Asia.
Polish refugees, recently released
from Russian concentration camps, in an Iranian camp, circa 1945. Photo from
Three Lions / Getty Images.
In the summer of 1942, Bandar Pahlavi, a
sleepy Iranian port town on the Caspian Sea, became a city of refugees. On its
shores were clusters of tents, a quarantine area for typhoid patients, and a
large area for distributing food. Outside the tented area, local peddlers hung
baskets of sweet cakes and sewing thread, disappearing periodically when
club-wielding policemen appeared.
The refugees were Polish citizens who
three years prior, with the outbreak of World War II, had fled into the Soviet
Union and now, having journeyed nearly 5,000 miles, sailed from Soviet
Turkmenistan to northern Iran. More than 43,000 refugees arrived in Bandar
Pahlavi in March 1942.
A second wave of almost 70,000 came
with the August transports, and a third group of nearly 2,700 was transferred
by land from Turkmenistan to Mashhad in eastern Iran. Of these, roughly 75,000
were soldiers, cadets, and officers of what was known as Anders’ Army, a Polish
army in exile that had assembled in the Soviet Union under the command of Gen.
Wladyslaw Anders.
The rest were mothers and babies,
elderly men and women, and unaccompanied children. Three thousand, perhaps
more, were Jewish, including four rabbis and nearly 1,000 unaccompanied
children who were taken from Polish orphanages in the Soviet Union. There were
also several hundred Polish Jewish stowaways, recent converts to Catholicism,
women who pretended to be married to Polish officers, and the like.
From the vantage point of the world we
live in today—a world of turmoil in the Middle East and peace in Europe, a world
of refugees fleeing the Middle East into Europe, a world in which Iran and
Israel are locked in a seemingly eternal conflict—it is hard to imagine that
another world existed.
In that world, refugees fled war-torn
Europe into Iran, Turkey, and Mandatory Palestine, and they lived there in
relative peace for the duration of the war.
* * *
In the early 1970s, Iranian film
director Khosrow Sinai stumbled on the story of the Polish refugees in wartime
Iran accidentally, while attending a memorial service at Doulab, Tehran’s
Catholic cemetery. His documentary film The Lost Requiem is a search for
the traces of these refugees’ lives, first in the gravestones carved with
Polish orthography, then in interviews with Poles who still lived in Iran and
elderly Iranians who still remember their arrival.
“One day we woke up and saw them
descend on shore,” a resident of Bandar Pahlavi, which was renamed Bandar
Anzali after the Iranian revolution, recounts in The Lost Requiem. “They
were in very bad condition, thin and ill.” Reader Bullard, then the British
ambassador to Iran, also reported that the “thousands of civilian
refugees—women and children and old men” descended in Iran very suddenly and
unexpectedly.
Those who arrived in Bandar Pahlavi on
the first transports in March 1942 were placed in small hotels and in the
Cinema Shir-o-Khorshid movie theater. The gravely ill were transferred to local
hospitals, the mildly ill were quarantined in a separate tent area, and the
rest were shaved, stripped of their lice-infested clothes, given a blanket and
a new set of clothing and underwear, and within weeks transferred to one of six
refugee camps in Tehran, Isfahan, or Ahvaz.
The world that the refugees came to was
one in which the British and Soviet empires had not yet collapsed; the State of
Israel had not yet been born; and the Islamic Republic of Iran was decades away
from existence. Months earlier, after the German invasion of the Soviet Union,
Anglo-Soviet troops invaded Iran, deposed and exiled the Germany-friendly Reza
Shah, and anointed his pro-British son Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, who would go on
to rule Iran until 1979.
A combination of factors had spurred
the invasion, not least fears that the Iranian oil fields, which had been under
the control of the Anglo-Iranian Oil Company since 1909, would fall into German
hands. Both the British and the Soviets now carved out spheres of influence in
Iran, the former in southern Iran and the latter in the north. And by the time
the Polish refugees arrived there, and despite continual, low-grade attacks by
pro-German Iranian groups, Iran had become a center of gravity for Allied
soldiers and an array of Jewish refugees from Europe, Soviet Central Asia,
Iraq, and the Caucasus.
In an “Urgent Report on Polish Refugees
in Persia,” British Col. Alexander Ross, who was charged with the care of
civilian refugees, wrote that nearly all the new arrivals suffered from some
disease due to prolonged malnutrition, and 40 percent had malaria. Gen. Anders
said that he expected a quarter of the refugees to die in Iran, and Polish
Ambassador Stanislaw Kot reported that of the 9,956 children who were evacuated
during the August transports, 60 percent suffered from malnutrition and 366 had
died on route.
But 15-year-old Emil Landau, a Jewish
boy from Warsaw, recalled the arrival in Iran as momentous in his diary:
On the historic day of August 16, 1942,
… In forty degrees and some weather, the first group of passengers leaves on
the tugboat’s dock and after a half hour sail arrives at the small port Bandar
Pahlavi. Difficult to transmit in writing the first impression. Each one feels
as if he is born again, has come to a place out of this world. The port’s
waters are littered with colorful boats; the surroundings are mowed lawns and
flowerbeds; rows of impressive Chevrolets and Studebakers wait for transport,
and everything seems good and beautiful, everything smiles together with the
Persians, and with the Indian soldiers who gaze at the arrivers with pity.
After we are on shore everyone hugs everyone.
Iran was the dream of every Jewish and
Christian Polish refugee in Central Asia, a respite from years of starvation in
the Soviet Union. It was the first country they had encountered since the
beginning of the war that had not been ravaged by war, hunger, and
disease.
“To us … it is a heaven,” Hayim
Zeev Hirschberg, a Warsaw-born rabbi, wrote.
* * *
Christian and Jewish Polish citizens had been exiled by
the Soviets together, first from Soviet-occupied Poland to the Soviet interior
and later to the Central Asian republics. In Central Asia, they received aid
that was collected by U.S.-based and international Jewish and Catholic
charities and distributed by representatives of the Polish government in exile;
in the Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic’s cities of Samarkand and Bukhara,
Jewish and Christian children were housed jointly in Polish orphanages. And
amid tensions and animosity—Jewish refugees received less aid, Jewish children
were sometimes taunted and beaten in Polish orphanages—there had also been the
intimacy of Polish-speaking citizens who shared a common fate.
Yet the evacuations to Iran, which
excluded most Jewish refugees and left them in the famished Soviet Union,
brought tensions between Christian and Jewish Polish refugees to a boiling
point. Now, in the safety of Iran, ethnic Polish and Jewish national identities
would begin to diverge altogether.
In Bandar Pahlavi, next to the
75-member Polish delegatura that welcomed the Polish refugees, stood a
lone representative of the Jewish Agency for Palestine, the governing body of
the Jewish population in then British-controlled Palestine. The man, Rafael
Szaffar, had immigrated to Palestine from Poland before the war and was now
sent to Tehran clandestinely to aid and organize Jewish refugees. Szaffar
reported to the Agency that the Jewish refugees were arriving to Iran: “swollen
from starvation, dressed in rags” andlooking “much worse than the
Poles.”
On shore in Iran, he met a
Zionist activist and well-known lawyer from his Polish hometown, and asked him
to identify from among the refugees other Polish Jews who had been active in
Zionist movements in Poland. The lawyer pointed out 23-year-old David
Lauenberg, a member of the socialist Zionist movement Hashomer Ha’tsair. Before
the war, Lauenberg had been an officer cadet in the Polish army.
When the war began, he fought in the
first battle of Warsaw, was wounded, evacuated east, and was eventually
captured by the Red Army as prisoner of war. After his release he tried to
reenlist into the Polish Army in exile, but, overhearing Polish soldiers at a
recruitment center in Kremina say, “How do we get rid of these filthy Jews?
They are shoving themselves everywhere,” he bartered his jacket for the uniform
of a drunk soldier and sailed to Iran as a stowaway.
“I was furious to the bottom of my
soul. Here I go to reenlist, and these Poles, with whom we went side by side
through the horror of the Gulags, in their eyes I was a filthy Jew again,” Lauenberg
wrote. In Bandar Pahlavi, he was handed a fresh set of clothes and instructed:
“Change your clothes, speak no language but Hebrew, and pretend you are an
emissary from the Land of Israel.”
At that moment, Lauenberg wrote, “I was
no longer a hapless refugee, a migrant without a home, but belonged to a
nation.” He assembled Jewish children from among the general Polish camps and
was appointed director of what was known as “Zydowski sierociniec”—“the
Jewish orphanage”—in the outskirts of Tehran.
Several hundred unaccompanied Jewish
refugee children were transferred directly from Bandar Pahlavi to the Jewish
orphanage, which was located inside Dushan Tappeh, a former Iranian air force
base that now served as refugee camp for Polish civilians. Five miles to the
east of Tehran, the silhouettes of the Alborz Mountains hovering above it, the
camp had a handful of buildings—the air force’s former Technical University,
some aircraft hangers, the artillery regiment building—and rows of barracks and
canvas tents, six of which had been allocated to the Jewish orphanage. In the
orphanage’s one cement building lived the littlest children, ages eight and
under; 120 such children slept on cotton mattresses and pillows strewn on
bamboo carpets.
“[The orphanage] does not evoke much
sympathy even among the Jewish refugees, and it is a real find for the
anti-Semitic Poles,” Landau wrote. Dushan Tappeh housed hundreds of Polish
women and children.
The majority of unaccompanied Christian
children were transferred from Bandar Pahlavi to Isfahan, where they were
housed inside the Convent of French Sisters; at the Church of Swiss Lazarist
Fathers; at the house of Father Iliff; at an English Protestant missionary; and
at the estate of the pro-British former governor of Isfahan, Prince Sarem
od-Doleh.
Within the sprawling Doleh estate, with
its whitewashed arched balconies, its shaded gardens, and its pools and fruit
trees, the children studied Polish language, history, geography, Latin,
religion, history, and biology in what the Iranian photographer Parisa Damandan
calls “lives lived behind closed doors in a Polish environment.”
A Polish school board standardized the
curriculum. Polish-language publishing houses in Jerusalem shipped Polish
textbooks to Iran. Everything including diet, school curriculum, and elaborate
celebrations of the Catholic Fathers, St. Nicholas Day, and Easter was designed
to instill in the children a Catholic Polish national identity, and Isfahan
circa 1942 became known as “the City of Polish children.”
“The ‘Poland of Isfahan,’” Damandan
wrote, “was in fact an independent state within Iran.” In Tehran as well,
Catholic holidays were celebrated, and the Polish coat of arms—a white
eagle—was carved into the earth at the camp at Dushan Tappeh.
Meanwhile, Jewish children continued to
pour into the Jewish orphanage “from all manners of homes and Polish
orphanages,” as Landau put it. Unlike in Isfahan, their lodgings, food, and
educational curriculum were impoverished. There was no school board, no books,
and no teachers; those with an educational background among the Jewish refugees
had remained in the Soviet Union.
The counselors, picked from among the
adult Polish Jewish refugees in Tehran, were barely older than their charges
and had little Jewish education and no pedagogical experience. They began with
teaching the anthem of Hashomer Ha’tsair: “We sing and rise! Atop ruins and
corpses/We stride and pass … and in the darkness/And with and without knowing
where we go, we walk the path/We rise and sing!”
By November 1942, the Polish name Zydowski
sierociniec was changed to the Hebrew Beit ha-Yeladim ha-Yehudi
b’Teheran, the Jewish Children’s Home of Tehran. A flag embroidered with
the camp’s Hebrew name was hung, Hebrew songs were taught (Lauenberg reported
that only 50 of the children knew Hebrew), and Sabbaths were celebrated. “It
was decided,” an Israeli author would later write, “that the children were no
longer orphans; the Jewish Nation was now their home!”
Iran, with its decentralized,
multiethnic, multilinguistic national makeup, so radically different from the
nominally homogeneous European nation-states, tolerated, at least initially,
the development of a Polish, and to a degree even a Jewish, independent state
within its borders.
* * *
By early 1943, after rising bread
costs spurred widespread demonstrations among the local population, the
majority of Polish refugees—both Jewish and Christian—would evacuate Iran to
India, Lebanon, and Syria. The largest number would transfer to
British-controlled Palestine.
There, Jewish children would be raised
on kibbutzim, at boarding schools, and with foster families as future citizens
of a Jewish state, while Polish children would attend Catholic schools in
Jerusalem and Nazareth, and mixed schools in Tel Aviv. Like Tehran, Tel Aviv
became a city of Polish refugees.
Polish citizens studied at the Hebrew
University of Jerusalem, conservatories, and technical schools; they played in
jazz bands, directed plays, and held literary soirees. They published
Polish-language periodicals: the Gazeta Polska, the Drodze, and
printed new editions of books of Polish poetry, anthologies, and textbooks from
old editions owned by the Hebrew University. Alongside and sometimes together
with the local Jewish population, they dispatched aid to Jewish and Christian
refugees in the Soviet Union, Africa, and elsewhere.
In Palestine, tensions between
Christians and Jews subsided considerably. Most civilian Christian
refugees stayed there until 1947, when the British mandate over Palestine
ended. Few remained forever.
Today, few Poles, Israelis, or Iranians
remember this chapter in their history, though the traces—graves of Polish
Jewish children in Tehran’s Jewish cemetery, graves of Poles in Jerusalem and
Jaffa, plaques thanking God for the deliverance of Polish children from the
Soviet Union to Jerusalem, memoirs written in Tehran and Tel Aviv—remain as
testaments to this forgotten past.
Collective memory is a political
business, and in the current political climate, the memory of Tehran as
hospitable to Jewish refugees and of Tel Aviv as hospitable to Christian Polish
refugees serves no purpose for the ruling Iranian, Israeli, and Polish
governments.
It is ironic, even tragic, that the
leading cities of two countries now steeped in conflict with one another were
in the 1940s cosmopolitan and mostly peaceful homes to thousands of refugees.
But it also provides hope that, one day, such a world might exist again.
Mikhal Dekel is a professor at the
City College and the Graduate Center of the City University of New York and the
author of Tehran Children: A Holocaust Refugee Odyssey. Twitter: @DekelMikhal.
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